It really is hard to choose a favourite from among the stellar 2016 single-vineyard pinots from Mornington Peninsula standout Kooyong - but the complex and savoury Ferrous just gets the nod in an all-star cast. The ironstone pebbles in the 20-year-old Tuerong vineyard give the wine terrific architecture with the tannins providing the framework in which quality dark cherry fruit characters and hints of spice lead the way with support from largely aged French oak barriques. The fruit here is beautifully layered with earthiness, structure and length. I'm happy to give this 96/100 and to bet most buyers find it too delicious right now to even think of cellaring it. $76. www.kooyongwines.com.au.