Just about every new release from Tasmanian producer Pooley is worthy of a review. The wines are invariably stylish and considered; cool-climate wine royalty. This is a thoroughly modern single-vineyard chardonnay from an estate vineyard in the Coal River Valley, just outside Hobart, that has supplied fruit for Penfolds Yattarna. This was whole-bunch pressed and matured in 40% new French oak, although the quality fruit has soaked up the oak, which merely sits in the background. Still a little tight but with some exciting energy, lovely balance and some flinty minerality on the palate, this deserves to be paired with a free-range roast pork leg with all the trimmings. Superb. $65. www.pooleywines.com.au/
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