A classic cool-climate chardonnay in the modern Australian style from winemaker Franco d'Anna of Hoddles Creek fame. The label suggests a homage to Burgundy and while this wine is determinedly Australian in many ways, it certainly has echoes of Chassagne-Montrachet, too. It's a modern wine with a complex but appealing bouquet leading to white stone-fruit and citrus notes, length, intensity and purity. Lively minerality leads the way on the palate with oak playing very much a support role. This is, quite simply, a delicious chardonnay with beautiful balance. If I'd have had a second bottle on hand I have no doubt I would have finished that as well. $35. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.