I'm overwhelmed by the number of quality chardonnays that cross my desk each week. The new ABC rule should be "Always Buy Chardonnay" given the excellence across the board of recent vintages. Nonetheless, this Adelaide Hills wine stands out from the pack; a cool-climate wine of style and finesse with aromatic attributes leading onto a pure palate in which crispness and linearity are more evident than the French oak and malolactic fermentation. Fresh green apples and citrus are dominant aromas with savoury, brioche notes aiding and abetting the bright fruit and clean acid finish. http://www.k1.com.au/. $35.