This is a ripping Marlborough sauvignon blanc with terrific complexity and intensity. If the name Grewacke is unfamiliar, it is the new label of former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd, whose wines are always just a little bit more interesting. This recent release has already received high praise from Jancis Robinson, the high priestess of wine writing, who said she "can't remember a Marlboro SB impressing me more." That's well-deserved acclaim for a wine that is a melifluous assemblage of flavours, ranging from gentle fruit salad to assertive minerality and deliciously zesty, crunchy citrus acidity. A small portion of the fruit was fermented in old French oak barriques to add texture and interest to a beautifully poised wine - a vinous ballerina. $26. www.greywacke.com.
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