Sometimes a wine leaps out of the of glass and demands immediate attention. On other occasions a wine creeps up on you and you suddenly realise you are on your third glass. This delightful McLaren Vale shiraz, designed for the cellar but delicious in its youth, fits firmly into the second category. Made from fruit grown on slightly cooler higher-altitude vines than is the norm in the Fleurieu, this is a red that offers flavour and balance in equal measure. French oak (30% new) adds some complexity and sophistication but does not intrude. If you like your reds rich, with soft supple tannins, then you'll enjoy this plummy/dark berry-fruited number right now. But there is certainly incentive enough to put a few bottles away. $35. www.pennyshill.com.au.