Quality pinot noir for under $20 a bottle is a trick very few wineries can pull off - but Franco d'Anna from Hoddles Creek manages it not once, but twice, with a pair of 2015 wines from the Yarra Valley and Gippsland under the Wickhams Road label. The Yarra Valley version is slightly more elegant, the Gippsland wine a little brighter, as well as a tad more earthy and savoury, but both offer quite astonishing value for money. There's balance here, unmistakable pinosity, and length, too. You might not find the subtleties of Premier Cru Burgundy, but just take a look at the price tag. It's well worth buying a case of this for Christmas as it is one Australia's greatest wine bargains. $18-20.