Gerard Naef is a transplanted Californian who is making some idiosyncratic and sometimes thrilling wines just outside Orange in Central Western New South Wales. This is a surprisingly youthful estate chardonnay for one at six years of age - and it still has some way to go. Give it some air to let the slightly stinky nose blow off and you have a real treat here with fleshy pear, peach and nectarine notes, beautifully integrated nutty oak and some citrusy lemon meringue hints on the finish. There is plenty of weight here despite the alcohol being only 11.9%. And there is still some nice acid on the finish, too. Who said Australian chardonnays do not cellar? I'd happily give this 96 points. $35. www.patinawines.com.au.