There have been turbulent times at Peter Lehmann Wines in recent years with the deaths of both Peter and Doug Lehmann and the announcement that chief winemaker Andrew Wigan is to retire at the end of the year. Wigan will go out on a high, however, with this wine from the VSV (Very Special Vineyard) series a case in point. It is a wonderfully elegant example of Barossa Valley shiraz, sourced from the Schrapel family vineyard in Ebenezer that was planted in 1885. These gnarly old vines have produced an outstanding wine in this fabulous vintage; spicy, fruit-driven and beguiling. Brilliant in its youth but potentially long lived. $60. www.peterlehmannwines.com.