Saturday, July 5, 2025

Tapanappa 2021 Whalebone Vineyard Cabernets Merlot Franc

What a stunning wine this is. It is made from fruit grown on the now 51-year-old Whalebone Vineyard on the Limestone Coast that was identified decades ago by wine industry veteran Brian Croser as "a distinguished site" capable of producing elegant and age-worth reds. It is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc given an Australian twist with the addition of shiraz. From a "model vintage", this a wine of impressive balance and finesse. French oak barriques (50% new) play key support role in a wine led by cassis flavours and spice that will doubtless age gracefully, but it is already extremely appealing. Only 2,000 cases were made. A steak and kidney casserole proved a wonderful foil. $90. https://tapanappa.com.au/

Saturday, June 28, 2025

Chapel Hill 2022 Road Block Shiraz

 

Affordable luxury here from Michael Fragos and his team at Chapel Hill in McLaren Vale, always reliable good purveyors of wines with power and class. One of the new release of icon wines, this is simultaneously an Alpha male red; impressively powerful, and studied and complete. It's a darkly assertive with classic regional dark fruits, deli notes, cedary oak and black pepper jostling for attention on the palate. There is plenty of generosity of flavour here, but also some amiable drinkability. A tempting winter warmer, maybe with a rabbit casserole or fricasee of mushrooms. Impressive. $70. https://www.chapelhillwine.com.au/

Saturday, June 21, 2025

Feudo Arancio 2023 Nero d'Avola

 

There are several Australian companies making wines from Nero d'Avola grapes, but this is the real thing from Feudo Arancio (the Orange Grove), a producer of very good-value wines from Sicily. Nero d'Avola is a grape native to Sicily and this one is made from fruit grown close to the Mediterranean. It  smells and tastes of the countryside, with earthy rustic and herbal notes alongside fresh red berry flavours minty hints and a soft finish. Very easy drinking here and this paired well with both lamb shanks and bangers and mash with onion gravy. $20. https://www.singlevineyards.com/

Saturday, June 14, 2025

Pike & Joyce 2024 Ceder Riesling



The Pike family has a big reputation for the high-quality wines at makes in the Clare Valley. What is less well known is that since 1998 it has partnered with the Joyce family to also produce wines in the cooler Adelaide Hills. This excellent riesling made from fruit grown at Lenswood is a fine example; slightly more textural than the Clare rieslings but impressively clear, aromatic and fresh with green apple and citrus notes on the palate. Energetic and minerally, it paired beautifully with swordfish steaks in a lemon butter sauce, but the folk at Pike & Joyce recommend enjoying with fresh Coffin Bay oysters. $32. https://pikeandjoyce.com.au/

Saturday, June 7, 2025

Soumah 2024 Brachetto Frizzante

 

Soumah vigneron and founder Brett Butcher describes brachetto as "liquid Turkish Delight" and "an adult version of Moscato". It is a wine that shouts out to be chilled and quaffed outdoors - a perfect choice for a warmer day, and with just 10% alcohol. Think wild strawberry and rose water flavours along with a gentle, refreshing sparkle. For those unfamiliar with the grape variety, the brachetto grape variety hails from north-east Italy and dates back to Roman times. It is only grown by a handful of vineyards in Australia, including in Soumah's Yarra Valley home. This is fresh, vibrant and unashamedly sweet, but not too sweet. Such a fun drink. $32. www.soumah.com.au.      

Saturday, May 31, 2025

Curly Flat 2023 Chardonnay

 

I am a huge fan of the wines made by Curtly Flat at Lancefield  in the Macedon Ranges - always composed and  excellent value. This is a very stylish cool-climate chardonnay from Jen Kolka and her team with classic citrus on the nose and peach, apricot and mandarin flavours along with a salty tang, minerality and lightly nutty oak notes. One for lovers of White Burgundy who prefer to buy Australian. Think length, impressive purity and depth of flavour and consider pairing with a roast chicken and sage stuffing. I'll give it 94 points. $55. www.curlyflat.com.

Saturday, May 24, 2025

Bleasdale 2022 Block 99 Malbec

 

It is widely recognised that the Aldi supermarket chain regularly showcases some of the best-value imported wines to be found in Australia. What is less well known is that Aldi also sells some terrific home-grown wines at absurdly low prices. From the venerable Bleasdale operation in Langhorne Creek, this an excellent example of varietal malbec, often used for blending but also the grape used in the classic French reds of Cahors and most of the stellar Argentine reds from Mendoza. This is an excellent example: Sturdy, but with some interesting chalky minerality. Pair with gourmet sausages. $16. https://www.aldi.com.au/