Friday, January 26, 2024

Tapanappa 2022 Foggy Hill Pinot Noir

The Tapanappa label is the result of a 40+ year mission of veteran winemaker Brian Croser and his family to make world-class wines from the most “distinguished sites” in South Australia. The Foggy Hill vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula might not be an obvious contender as a site for world-class pinot, but it delivers big time with this vibrant and spicy example of classic terroir-driven varietal character. There is plenty of length here and aging potential, too, given its serious complexity, but it is a lovely wine right now that I give 95 points. Impressive stuff . $60.

Friday, January 19, 2024

Levantine Hill 2020 Melange Botrytis

Many wine drinkers make the mistake of thinking that sweet wines must be paired with desserts. Au contraire, the French, who know a little about food and wine matching, tend to pair their classic Sauternes wines with dishes including foie gras, pates, terrines and soft cheeses. This homage to Sauternes is a blend of late-harvested semillon, sauvignon blanc, muscadelle and sauvignon gris with the whole far greater than its parts. Rich and luscious, this has apricot, marmalade, golden honey and Seville orange notes with enough acid on the finish to match the lashings of residual sugar. Well worth checking out. $60 for 375mls 

Concentrated and complexed via infection of the selected berries with the noble Botrytis cinerea, this wine is rich and hedonistic, luscious and viscous yet elegant and structured.

Aromas of golden syrup dumplings, barley sugar, crystallised ginger, beeswax andorange marmalade meld with flavours of orange poppy seed cake, cumquat and cardamom panna cotta.

A smattering of phenolics on the finish helps draw the palate long giving resolution and profundity, keeping the sweetness in check. It will gain further richness and dark allure with careful cellaring over 10+ years.

Discover more about our 2020 Mélange Botrytis and how this unusual wine is made in our Wine Spotlight.

Note: 375ml bottle $60.

Friday, January 12, 2024

Giant Steps 2023 Rosé


I could drink more than a few glasses of this impressively slurpable rosé from Yarra Valley standout Giant Steps. Winemaker Melanie Chester - previously from rosé specialist Sutton Grange - has blended syrah (shiraz) and pinot noir grapes to produce a wine that is both fun and stylish - perfect for a summer picnic, or just for sipping on the veranda after work. It is unashamedly based on the pale, savoury rosés of Provence and is clearly designed to be enjoyed well chilled for maximum refreshment. Intense with raspberry and redcurrant flavours, this finishes with impressive bright acidity. Drink now. Right now. $32.

Friday, January 5, 2024

Longview 2021 Devil's Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon

The cool Adelaide Hills are not the first location you'd think of for sourcing quality cabernet sauvignon, but this one delivers both quality and value to challenge Coonawarra and Margaret River with fruit from a Macclesfield vineyard that gets plenty of midday sun. This has classic blackcurrant and chocolate characters but finishes smooth, supple and stylish. There's plenty of length here with a long ripening period resulting in pleasingly intense but well balanced fruit flavours aided and abetted by malo and 12 months in soft, older oak. Medium-bodied and all the better for it. This won a trophy for the best cabernet at the 2022 Melbourne Royal Wine Awards$30.