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An absolute ripper from Joch Bosworth and Louise Hemlsey-Smith in McLaren Vale - a "new wave" red that is all about pure fruit flavours. Made in the "Joven" or "young wine" style of Rioja, this is one of the first 2017 reds to cross my path. Made organically with no oak treatment and no added preservatives, it is designed for early enjoyment and that certainly works. Bright and fresh with dark berry and red fruit characters jostling for supremacy, this is a red that demands very little but delivers a whole lot. Soft and subversively slurpable. $22.
Clonakilla is renowned for the consistent quality of its benchmark shiraz viognier, but the Murrumbateman winery is also building a solid reputation for the reliability of its outstanding riesling. For several vintages now Clonakilla has offered a serious challenge to the supremacy of the Clare Valley for top-notch rieslings. This is particularly fresh and zingy with lovely florals and bright citrus flavours ranging from lemon/lime to grapefruit. Throw in some bright natural acidity and tremendous length and you have a dry riesling of real appeal. This will also develop deliciously if you have patience. $38. www.clonakilla.com.au.
There is a definite movement away from heavy, oaky reds to lighter, easier-drinking styles and talented new Penley Estate winemaker Kate Goodman has captured the zeitgeist here with a delicious drink-now cabernet franc (a grape variety we should be seeing a whole lot more of). This was early picked, wild fermented and stayed on skins for almost a fortnight. It is made with zero oak influnce, instead shining a light on the quality fruit. It is low in alcohol at 13% and was made with minimal sulfites. Not what you'd expect from Coonawarra but a bloody beautiful drink with an eye-catching label. Pity about the wax capsule and cork - but you can't have everything. $35. www.penley.com.au.
Mourvedre is a grape with several personalities. Also known as mataro or monastrell, it is grown in France, Spain and the United States, as well as in the warmer regions of Australia. Not only is it a key component in GSM blends, it is also widely used in fortified wines, as well as a component of some rosés. Most of the Mourvèdre from the Yangarra estate vineyard at Kangarilla goes into a GSM but limited-quantity varietals are produced in exceptional years. This is a very lively and spicy wine, perfumed, with grippy tannins and extremely enjoyable even in its youth. Kept on lees for 10 months in older oak barrels this is unashamedly fruit driven, unfined and certified biodynamic. Lovely stuff.