This one sings. Somewhere between Frank Sinatra at his cool best and Paul Rodgers of Free in full flight. Alison Krauss once described Rodgers' voice as "incredibly masculine, sexy, hardworking". The first two descriptors work for this wine, the third not. It is effortlessly excellent, a masterful expression of Margaret River cabernet that stood out from a bracket of other top-line wines from name producers. It is medium-bodied and stylish, slightly dusty and very beguiling. My bottle threw a bit of a crust, so it might be worth decanting, but either way you will be rewarded by a world-class wine with fine tannins and shiny fruit. Simply gorgeous. 96 points from me. $85. www.leeuwinestate.com.au
Sunday, August 22, 2021
In Australia there remains a lot of confusion between pinot grigio and pinot gris styles but this is the real deal, an authentic northern Italian pinot grigio from a well-established producer in the Adigo Valley region, where pinot grigio thrives as a fresh, crisp, easy-to-drink varietal. This is straw coloured with fresh dry apple and pear fruit characters to the fore and is immensely versatile with food. Try it with anything from washed-rind cheeses to Thai stir fries. Santa Margherita Wines began in 1935 and this offers an authentic taste of cool-climate Italy. Check out Dan Murphy's stores. $22-25.
Monday, August 16, 2021
There is something very special about this Mornington Peninsula single vineyard pinot noir - and it id very much down to the vineyard in which the grapes are grown. The low-yielding block has a high incidence of ironstone pebbles that deliver wines with concentration and savoury tannic presence - think river pebbles - alongside juicy raspberry and cherry fruit notes. Medium-bodied but with a formidable presence, this is delicious in its youth, but is also a cellaring prospect. 96 points and another winner from ultra-reliable Glen Hayley. $75. www.portphillipestate.com.au/
Sunday, August 8, 2021
Kerri Thompson is probably best known for her outstanding Clare Valley rieslings but this juicy red blend offers some of the best value in her range. At four years of age, it is right in the zone with juicy fruity drinkability from two southern French grape varieties allied to some savoury notes on the palate. The former Leasingham and Wirra Wirra winemaker has blended 75% grenache and 25% mataro, 50% whole bunch and basket pressed. The fruit is the star turn with French oak barriques adding interest in the background. Smooth, concentrated and exceptional value.$29. https://winesbykt.com/