Monday, April 30, 2012
Fragrant, elegant, taut and precise, this is a Clare Valley riesling that is perky and racy in its youth but will comfortably cellar for a decade or more. A backbone of searingly crisp acidity is the key to this wine's appeal, with a floral, sweet talcum pwder aromas leading on to searingly freah lime citrus and mineral/flinty notes notes in a wine of formidable structure. If you like your rieslings fragrant, pristine, bone dry and disciplined you won't go wrong here. $33. www.mounthorrocks.com.
Monday, April 23, 2012
For the past four years now, this stunning chardonnay has featured among my wine of the year selections. It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for and this offers quality with a capital Q. Vanya Cullen has the Midas touch with her biodynamically grown fruit, using basket pressing in the winery for a more gentle approach. This comes from a slightly warmer year in Margaret River than the 09 but remains a wine of elegance and complexity. There are the citrus and mineral characters you'd expect to find on the palate, but also oyster shell notes, gentle spices, hints of rich cashew nuts, integrated French oak and structural complexity aided by partial malolactic fermentation. This is a masterpiece of wine architecture - everything is in balance. $105. www.cullenwines.com.au.