Sauvion Les Eglantines 2007 Sauvignon

Made in a style that is a million miles away from Kiwi sauvignon blanc, this is quintessentially French, with citrus characters on the nose and a lively fresh acid finish. Made from Touraine fruit, it is a zingy little number that would be superb partnered with a plate of oysters. $20.

Briar Ridge 2007 Dairy Hill Shiraz

A bigger-than-usual Hunter shiraz, a reflection of the vintage, with ripeness and richness on the palate, some lovely supple character and even a little elegance. Hugely drinkable now, but will cellar comfortably for a decade. Very appealing. $48.

Allandale 2008 Hunter Valley Chardonnay

There's superb balance in this very attractive Hunter wine. A blend of barrel-fermented, wood-aged and unoaked components results in stone fruit/figgy characters and nutty nuances. Complex and elegant. $19.