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If you enjoy your pinot noirs complex, with savoury and undergrowth characters, then this one hits the spot. Definitus is made by veteran winemaker Brian Croser - one of the greats of the industry - from just a small patch of his Foggy Hill vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia. The alcohol levels are modest at 13% but there is whole lot going on on the lean but expressive palate with ripe blueberry notes, Asian spices and excellent tannin structure all in play. A smidgen of whole bunch, indigenous yeasts and a whole lot of care and attention have created a superior, very stylish wine that will cellar well, but could be paired right now with a roast duck. A bottle of this would be welcomed as a Christmas gift by any wine lover. 95 points from me. $90. https://tapanappa.com.au/