I visited Angus Thomson at his Urlar vineyards at Gladstone, outside Martinborough, a couple of years back and remember being most impressed by the Scotsman's passion for his vines - and biodynamic principles as a means to quality. Urlar uses both organic and biodynamic methods and all future releases will be certified organic. Urlar, by the way, is a Gaelic word that means “The Earth”. The Urlar range; an appealing off-dry riesling, an impressively muscular pinot noir, a sauvignon blanc (of course) and this pinot gris, is now available in Australia through distributors Fine Wine Partners and is creating a bit of stir. I loved this wine; barrel-fermented to add complexity and texture but with pear and nectarine flavours leading the charge on the palate. There's plenty of mouthfeel and lots of length. Winemaker Guy McMaster, formerly of Escarpment, is on song and this is a new name worth checking out. www.urlar.co.nz. $30.
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