This is an experimental wine from John Harris and his "muse and alchemist" Craig McKenzie; inspired by France but offering a unique taste of Australia. You've probably tried Harris's wines before. He was chief winemaker at Domaine Chandon before downsizing to Ballarat, where he makes an impressive range of wines and has an urban cellar door and wine bar. This is the duo's take on French vin de liqueurs, or mistelle de raisins, like Floc de Gascogne or Pineau de Charentes, and is made from sauvignon blanc grapes from the Victorian Pyrenees, fortified with grape spirit and matured in French oak. The end result is a classic aperitif, slightly sweet but wonderfully textural with rose and almond notes, that is probably best enjoyed on ice. Try it and be blown away. $35. www.mitchellharris.com.au.