Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice, the inventive couple behind Tasmanian boutique label Sinapius, describe themselves as wine growers, rather than winemakers. Their wines are close planted, dry grown and hand picked on their exposed site at Pipers Brook. This is 100% estate grown pinot from low-yielding 22-year-old vines made with minimalist winemaking intervention; 80% whole berries, 20% whole bunches, wild yeast fermentation for 21 days and matured in 30% new French oak barriques for 12 months, then a further three months blended in tank prior to bottling to allow for natural clarification and integration. Think black and red fruits, herbal notes, deli counter characters and natural acidity, on a wine that finishes soft and sweet with plenty of textural impact. Well worth tracking down. $55. www.sinapius.com.au.