Margaret River icon Cullen Wines is at the vanguard of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Australia, producing some of the country's finest wines at appropriate price points. But Vanya Cullen and her team also produce some outstanding wines that do not cost the earth, this being a prime example. A blend of 85% cabernet and 15% merlot, this is a very stylish wine, mellifluous on the palate and ready to enjoy in its youth. From an excellent, albeit warm, vintage this has plenty of depth of flavour and impressive structure with 20% new French oak playing a support role as the quality fruit plays lead guitar. Elegant wine; excellent drinking. $50. www.cullenwines.com.au.