K1 by Geoff Hardy 2008 Chardonnay

I'm overwhelmed by the number of quality chardonnays that cross my desk each week. The new ABC rule should be "Always Buy Chardonnay" given the excellence across the board of recent vintages. Nonetheless, this Adelaide Hills wine stands out from the pack; a cool-climate wine of style and finesse with aromatic attributes leading onto a pure palate in which crispness and linearity are more evident than the French oak and malolactic fermentation. Fresh green apples and citrus are dominant aromas with savoury, brioche notes aiding and abetting the bright fruit and clean acid finish. http://www.k1.com.au/. $35.

1er Yarra Valley 2009 Chardonnay

A classic cool-climate chardonnay in the modern Australian style from winemaker Franco d'Anna of Hoddles Creek fame. The label suggests a homage to Burgundy and while this wine is determinedly Australian in many ways, it certainly has echoes of Chassagne-Montrachet, too. It's a modern wine with a complex but appealing bouquet leading to white stone-fruit and citrus notes, length, intensity and purity. Lively minerality leads the way on the palate with oak playing very much a support role. This is, quite simply, a delicious chardonnay with beautiful balance. If I'd have had a second bottle on hand I have no doubt I would have finished that as well. $35. www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au.

Elefante 2009 Tempranillo Shiraz

Spain (and neighboring Portugal for that matter) is producing some terrific wines that fly under the mainstream radar. This is a thoroughly modern red blend from the Castilla region with lots of smart, bright fruit and some impressive earthiness as well. It's a ripe, full-bodied wine that has some appealling berry flavours tempered by good tannin structure. The label is as bold as the contents of the bottle and what is amazing is the price: at $12.99 this puts a lot of domestic reds to shame.

Scarborough 2009 White Label Chardonnay

Cool-climate chardonnays from regions like Tasmania, the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula are all the rage but it pays to remember that chardonnay can shine just about anywhere - including the warm Hunter Valley. Winemaker Ian Scarborough has long had a Midas touch with the variety but he'll rarely have made a better wine than this one, which is more restrained in style than many of his offerings but still has plenty of fruit generosity. It's a complex wine with a lot to say; more Cate Blanchett than Cameron Diaz. There's a peachy/spicy bouquet, nectarine/stone-fruit flavours on the palate, compelling structure and impressive acid on the finish, which is surprisingly minerally and tangy given the fruit's provenance. A really lovely wine and excellent value. www.scarboroughwine.com.au. $30.

Robert Stein 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

This family-owned Mudgee winery has been kicking quite a few goals recently; their 2010 Reserve Riesling is also a ripper. Balance is the key to this dark, rich cabernet, which has the classic blackcurrant and chocolate characters, alongside spice and impressively integrated oak but weighs in at a sensible 13.5% alcohol while still having impressive length and persistence. A terrific wine for pairing with a classic lamb roast. $35.

Morning Sun 2008 Pinot Noir

I tasted this wine six months ago and was distinctly underwhelmed. I sampled it again at the recent Mornington International Pinot Noir Celebrations and loved it. It's pale, certainly, but it doesn't pay to be colourist with pinot and the way it has evolved is an object lesson in wine as a living organism, constantly changing. This was made by previous incumbent Owen Goodman, not current winemaker Michael Kyberd - and Kyberd admits he is pleasantly surprised at how the wine has developed into a pinot with real pinosity; it's quite light-bodied and delightfully perfumed with beautiful structure and length. Dark cherry and rhubarb characters are prominent along with tons of acid. A wine that will continue to develop over the next few years. www.morningsunvineyard.com.au. $38.

Foster e Rocco 2010 Nuovo Unoaked Sangiovese

Former Lake House sommelier Adam Foster is proving a dab hand at the winemaking caper with a series of delightfully drinkable wines to his name (and that of fellow sommelier Lincoln Riley in this case). This deliciously different wine really took my fancy. It's a perfect choice for those who enjoy good reds but like to chill them a little - an unoaked sangiovese made from Heathcote fruit that has the typical bright sangiovese dark cherry fruit characters, plenty of earthiness and just a hint of sweetness on the palate. It's simple, rustic, relatively low in alcohol (12.8%) and food friendly. A lot like drinking grape juice - but a whole lot more fun. $30.