Primo Estate 2012 La Biondina

Is this the best colombard in the world? Quite probably. Is this one of Australia's best wine bargains? Most definitely. For 30 years now Joe Grilli has been coaxing extraordinary results from his colombard vines on the Adelaide Plains. What is so often a dull grape used for blending turns from an ugly duckling to a beautiful swan in Grilli's capable hands. Fresh and fruity, zingy and zesty, this is a quintessential summer wine, unoaked with lively tropical fruit salad flavours, citrus peel and a delightful briskness on the finish. The name, La Biondina, means "young blonde" - and this is certainly a wine to be enjoyed in its youth. $16. www.primoestate.com.au.

Arrivo 2008 Nebbiolo

I was just rushing out of a wine tasting, en route to another wine tasting, when fellow scribe Max Allen suggested I hold my horses and check out the Arrivo nebbiolos. Max, as usual, was right on the money. Wine scientist Peter Godden and his partner Sally McGill handcraft tiny quantities of stylish wines in the Adelaide Hills, paying tribute to the great wines of Piedmont. Even though this beautifully savoury and structured wine is four years old, it will ideally be consumed in 15-20 years down the track. It is a wine with impressive architecture, a vinous cathedral with many elements to admire. I loved its brambly intensity and length, tannin structure and its peacock's tail of intense dark fruit and earthy, mushroomy flavours. $48. www.arrivo.com.au.   

Grosset 2012 Polish Hill Riesling

Just as Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace are regarded as Australia's iconic red wines, so is Grosset Polish Hill Riesling seen as the benchmark white. It's the wine every restaurateur wants on their list and one collectors have to move swiftly to secure as it always sells out. Year in, year out, Polish Hill delivers purity, minerality and intense freshly squeezed lime juice fruit. It's as fresh as a mountain stream, concentrated and delicious. With 2012 being regarded as one of the greatest riesling vintages for some time, this sleek number may be in short supply. Move fast. If this were a car, it would be a sleek silver Ferrari.  $50.

TarraWarra 2011 Pinot Noir Rosé

This new release from Yarra Valley winery TarraWarra Estate is bang on target as an example of the new-wave savoury rosés that spearheaded last year's Rosé Revolution. Made from 100% pinot noir and aged first in stainless steel, then for three months in older French oak puncheons to add complexity, this is made in deliberately dry, food-friendly style that has some very interesting textural elements. Elegant, with wild strawberry notes and delightfully fresh acid, I would place this among Australia's very best rosés. $22.    

Domaine Begude 2011 Terroir 11300 Chardonnay

I loved the 2010 vintage of this import from near Limoux in the spectacular Aude region of southern France but the 2011 is, if anything, even more impressive with a tightrope balance between bright fruit flavours and elegance. On the second sip I wrote on Twitter that is was a wine that had "empty bottle" written all over it. And so it proved. It's made by British couple James and Katherine Kinglake and has the flinty notes and citrus you'd associate with Chablis, alongside some New World sweet fruit. it's a blend of mainly stainless steel-fermented fruit and some barrel fermented. The vineyard has been organically farmed for the last 30 years and wine has been produced on the estate since the 16th century. The name reflects the local postcode. Once again, the wine is imported into Australia by the canny Marcus Gniel of Ce Soir wines in Healesville. $25. www.cesoirwine.com.  

Tapanappa 2010 Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

The latest Tapanappa pinot noir release from winemaking veteran Brian Croser's Foggy Hill Vineyard - a cool site at 350 metres above sea level on the Fleurieu Peninsula - is both exquisitely balanced and scarily Burgundian. It's a medium-bodied wine, concentrated, but with everything exquisitely in place. Matured in French oak barriques (30% new), it has dark cherry, brambly and savoury notes on the palate, some fleshy nuances despite 10% whole bunch input and plenty of length on the finish. It is the vinous equivalent of a supermodel at Cannes: cool, calm and collected. And, joy of joys, it is bottled under screw cap. $50. www.tapanappawines.com.au.

Oliver's Taranga Vineyard 2012 Small Batch Vermentino

Vermentino is starting shine in warmer Australian wine regions. The late-ripening Italian grape produces whites of vibrancy and freshness in good vintages - and this new release from Corrina Wright at McLaren Vale family winery Oliver's Taranga is among the best Australian vermentinos I've seen. Wright says 2012 was a cracking vintage all round in the Vale, but this  has an X-factor that gives it extra appeal. It may be light, crisp and refreshing, but it also has real interest on the palate. Buy a case for summer. $24. www.oliverstaranga.com.