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The Killerman's Run is not the best riesling in the Kilikanoon portfolio. That would be the Mort's Reserve. It's not the second-ranking riesling either, that's the Mort's Block. But while it only ranks third in the Kilikanoon heirachy, this is a very good-value drink that shines from an outstanding vintage - as befits a wine from James Halliday's 2013 Winery of the Year. Made from grapes sourced from several Clare vineyards - including those that provide fruit for the flagships - this is a classic of the style; fragrant, crisp and zingy with fresh lemon and lime flavours and plenty of racy acidity. Pair this with a plate of flathead and chips and you have a feast at a pauper's price with this wine sometimes to be found on special. $20. www.kilikanoon.com.au (although the website is shambolic).
This is the third commercial release by Mornington Peninsula winery Eldridge Estate of their gamay/pinot noir blend that is an homage to the much-loved and undervalued Burgundian light dry red style known as Passetoutgrain, abbreviated to PTG because, well, this is Australia. This is an unashamedly drink-now style; soft and juicy and extremely slurpable, it is unfined, unfiltered and low sulphur - and tastes like a liquid summer berry pudding. This will stand being chilled and would be a perfect partner for cold roast turkey. $28. www.eldridge-estate.com.au
Margaret River is enjoying a series of outstanding vintages and the Sandalford wines have never looked in better shape. This wine is made from grapes of dry-grown vineyards that are among the oldest in the region and comprises 92% cabernet sauvignon and 8% other Bordeaux varieties with a smidgen of shiraz. Pretty, fragrant aromas are followed by a palate that is just a tad bigger than medium bodied with soft silkiness alongside dark berries, mint and herbal notes. This is drinking superbly right now and is a bargain compared to some of the more expensive offerings from the same region. Match it with veal, or maybe even the Christmas turkey. $45.
A new label from De Bortoli Yarra Valley, where Steve Webber is churning out some outrageously good wines, and this is an absolutely beautiful, and affordable, chardonnay in the style of Petit Chablis. Made from fruit blended from several different sub-regions of the Yarra, including Dixons Creek, Woori Yallock and Tarrawarra, this is an immaculately balanced number with pristine, crisp fruit, slatey and citrus characters to the fore, with some nutty textural hints adding interest but letting the fruit do the talking. Just 12.5% alcohol, too. It's well worth picking up a case of this for the holiday season. $22. www.debortoli.com.au.
Sometimes, all it takes is a little tenderness; a delicate touch in the winery. By all measure this is a big wine; a powerful McLaren Vale red that's released in a heavy bottle, is presented under cork and decorated with wine show bling. So far, so old fashioned. But winemaker John Davey has not gone the blockbuster route. While this is by no means shy and retiring and carries 14.5% alcohol, it is also beautifully balanced, out-shining a couple of regional rivals at more than twice the price. Named for the Davey Block of the Davey Estate vineyard, these wines are John Davey's personal expression of the McLaren Vale and showcase the best shiraz and cabernet sauvignon that the region is capable of producing. They are true reserve wines, only made in exceptional vintages and designed for the long haul. Thankfully, this also has just a little delicacy that makes it stand out from the crowd. It's medium- to full-bodied with bright blackcurrant fruit, artisan chocolate and earthy notes; voluptuous, long and soft. I liked it a lot. $60. www.shingleback.com.au.
The 2012 wines from Geelong producer Austins are quite outstanding with the pinot noir from the same vintage also extremely impressive. This is traditionally a very crisp and fresh style designed for enjoyment while still youthful and this is an elegant example with nectarine and peach flavours alongside some crisp citrus notes. There's some delightful crisp acidity but this is no one-trick pony with some creamy textural elements making it a complete package. Impressive, and a good match for poultry and veal dishes. $30. www.austinswines.com.au.
This is a vibrant young red wine from Sam and Tom Barry, the
20-something winemaker brothers at Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley. A blend
of Australia’s two most popular red grape varieties, shiraz and cabernet
sauvignon, it is designed for immediate enjoyment and certainly has
slurpability. It’s inky and juicy and unashamedly fruit driven with plenty of
length. A terrific uncomplicated barbecue or quaffing red. $19. www.jimbarry.com.
