Houghton 2012 Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon

First produced in 1994, this single-vineyard wine from the Frankland River region of West Australia's Great Southern honours Jack Mann, who was senior winemaker at Houghton from 1930-1972. From a great red vintage, this is made from some of the region's oldest vines. It is an Immensely satisfying wine, with impressive dark fruit and impeccable balance, while subtle oak and an assertive tannin structure suggest this will cellar well for decades. One of the best Jack Manns to date. $115.

Singlefile 2014 Porongurup Riesling

Regions of West Australia's remote Great Southern region, particularly Frankland River and the Porongurups, are noted for producing steely, classy rieslings of impeccable line and length. This bone dry number is gloriously gluggable, weighing in at just 11.3 percent alcohol, and is one of a number of very fine wines produced by this under-rated producer, a boutique family-run operation that was named as a James Hailliday "Dark Horse" winery in 2014. $25. www.singlefilewines.com

Sebastien Dampt 2013 Chablis

A cracking Chablis - available under screw cap in Australia - from Sebastien Dampt, son of renowned Chablisienne producer Daniel Dampt. This is a relatively inexpensive wine from the appellation but none the less delicious for that. This is a very pure wine, with bright acid, and palate interest has been added by six months on lees and malolactic fermentation. Lemon and other citrus notes are to the fore, along with white peach, with the chardonnay fruit looking very fresh and tense. Made from 45-year-old vines and a lovely companion for grilled flathead fillets, crustaceans and old-fashioned roast pork. Imported by France Soir. $36. www.francesoirwineselections.com.au
   

Mandala 2012 Prophet Pinot Noir

The wines from Mandala, a relatively new producer in the Yarra Valley, have shown immense promise over the past decade. This single-vineyard pinot noir from cool Yarra Junction (Mandala also has a vineyard at Dixon's Creek) not only confirms that potential, it underlines it in thick black marker pen, Made only in outstanding years, this has a compelling freshness and vibrancy to it; perfumed with poached cherry flavours, newly-picked raspberry notes and understated oak all coming together, this is a delightfully light-on-its-feet wine that would once have been labelled feminine - had that term not been outlawed by the police of vinous political correctness. Anyway, this is lovely, speaks of the region and will set you back around $50. www.mandalawines.com.au. 
    

Henschke 2010 Hill of Grace

This is a wine of remarkable intensity that is destined to be rated with the greatest Hill of Graces. Think ripeness, concentration, balance and a tribute to a remarkable vineyard with vines up to 150 years old in the Eden Valley. A wise wine, one that is comfortable in its skin even in its youth, with dark berry notes, a melange of Asian spices, cedary oak and silky tannins. It a wine that will continue to emerge and flourish over the next couple decades. A vinous treasure. I'm happy to score this one 99/100. $699. www.henschke.com.au.

Howard Park 2014 Mount Barker Riesling

Many years ago Howard Park had a riesling labelled simply as coming from Western Australia. It was one of the finest in the land. Then the wine was defined as Great Southern, the source of almost the entirety of the fruit. Then came a second wine, labelled as from the Porongurups, and then, in 2014, the Great Southern wine was re-labelled Mount Barker as the fruit all now comes from that sub-region. No matter how confusing those changes may have been, both Howard Park rieslings remain at the pinnacle with my personal preference, in this vintage, just going for the Mount Barker wine. It is flinty, minerally, citrusy and gorgeous, pristine, lively, zesty and delicious. You get the picture. $33. www.burchfamilywines.com.au. 

Kooyong 2013 Chardonnay

It is uncanny how often winemaker Sandro Mosele hits the bullseye with the refined chardonnays and pinots he makes under both the Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong labels. I recently raved about the 2013 Port Phillip Chardonnay, which is a few dollars cheaper than this, but if you have the extra cash to splash then this is the wine I would opt for. Everything is in place here, like a catwalk model at fashion week, great cool-climate fruit, barrel-ferment adding structure and interest to the pristine grapefruit and pear notes and a great line of purity and acid. A wine that simply oozes class. $42. www.kooyongwines.com.au.