Saturday, May 21, 2016

Thomas 2014 Deju Vu Shiraz



Andrew Thomas has just released all six of his shirazes from the much-acclaimed 2014 Hunter vintage; and the good news is that they live up to the hype, with the Kiss Shiraz ($75) leading the charge with macho aplomb. This is probably more old school Hunter Burgundy in style and is certainly lighter and more savoury with immediate drinkability. It is an individual vineyard wine from the light, sandy soils of the Trevenna vineyard and a splash of semillon verjuice has been added (I'd have guessed pinot noir), to pretty up the red fruit. Only older oak has been used to add textural interest - but is almost imperceptible on the palate. Smooth, supple and downright lovely. $30. www.thomaswines.com.au. 

Monday, May 16, 2016

Jim Barry 2016 Watervale Riesling


It is always interesting to follow the race to be the first to release new-vintage wines; and this was the first 2016 to land on my doorstep. If it is a harbinger then there will be plenty of smiles because it is, as is usually the case, a wine that offers outstanding value. This is the entry level Jim Barry riesling but it offers classic Clare Valley/Watervale pleasures with zingy lemon and lime sorbet notes on the palate along with grapefruit notes. There's plenty of refreshing acidity but it is beautifully balanced for a wine so young. A great partner for spicy Thai dishes, fresh oysters or simply as an after-work reviver. $19. www.jimbarry.com.

Sunday, May 8, 2016

De Bortoli 2013 Bella Riva Sangiovese


A lovely wine for everyday drinking this. Soft, savoury and supple, it is extremely food friendly and dangerously quaffable. This is made from fruit grown in the King Valley in north-east Victoria - a region where Italian varietals like sangiovese thrive. It has been matured in older oak for 18 months and is drinking beautifully right now. This slightly rustic number would pair beautifully with a bowl of spaghetti bolognaise, or a pizza fresh from the wood oven. Great value, too. $15. www.debortoli.com.au.  

Monday, May 2, 2016

Best's Great Western 2012 13-Acre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon


This spectacular individual vineyard cabernet sauvignon was one of my favourites from a most rewarding weekend spent in the Grampians region of Victoria, enjoyed during a class given by Viv Thomson and winemaker Justin Purser. While Best's, celebrating their 150th anniversary this year, are probably better known for shiraz than cabernet, this is a ripper of a wine that took out the trophy for the best cabernet at the 2013 Victorian Wine Show. There are small amounts of merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot in the blend, which carries its 14.5% alcohol with nonchalant ease. It is a wine with a bit of a swagger with dark berry fruit aided and abetted by spice notes and impressive tannin structure. Well worth 96 points - and it will cellar well. This is made only in seriously good years - and 2012 was a classic. It might be hard to find, but contact the Best's cellar door, or try the new-release 2013 instead. $35. www.bestswines.com. 

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Cullen 2014 Diana Madeline


I was absolutely blown away by the quality of this new release from Vanya Cullen (actually it was a sneak peek and the wine will be released next month). It is probably the best young Australian red wine I have ever tasted - an instant classic. It is still youthful but everything is beautifully balanced. With fruit intensity (think dark currants and berries), quality French oak (69% new barriques), hints of tobacco leaf and superb structure, this is on the same level as first and second growth Bordeaux from the best years. A tribute to Cullen's mother, Margaret River wine industry pioneer Diana Cullen, this is a blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon with small batches of petit verdot, merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. The bees knees and I'm happy to give it 99/100 (not something I do very often). You won't be disappointed. $110. www.cullenwines.com.au.     

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Pike & Joyce 2015 Rapide Pinot Noir


Is this the best-value young pinot noir in Australia? You'd be hard-pressed to find many that are better. From the Adelaide Hills, where cool-climate varieties like pinot flourish, this is a bright and vibrant young wine. It's a bit of a show off with some "look at me" tendencies but quality fruit that's been given a short stint in French oak has resulted in a wine where the youthful vigour is also charming. It's fresh and easy-to-drink with bright berry flavours and softish tannins. Don't bother cellaring this one. Drink now. Enjoy. $21. www.pikeandjoyce.com.au.

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Terre a Terre 2015 Blanc

From industry veteran Brian Croser's daughter Lucy and her talented French partner Xavier Bizot, this is an impressive wine made from close-planted Wrattonbully sauvignon blanc that owes a lot more in style to Bordeaux than Marlborough. Cold soaked, then slowly fermented in a huge 3,000-litre new French foudre, this then spent a further five months in old oak, which resulted in a wine that is enigmatic and intriguing with just a hint of residual sugar on the palate. Chalky, off dry and delightful. $32. www.terreaterre.com.au.