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Most wine lovers will associate David Bicknell and his Oakridge team with stellar Yarra Valley chardonnay and pinot noir. What is less well known is that Oakridge also produces outstanding shiraz and cabernet releases. Here is a very impressive case in point, a stylish, elegant syrah that uses fruit from a close-planted vineyard site near the winery. Matured for 10 months in 10% new French puncheons, this is deliciously savoury with lovely tannin structure and a sassy charm. Think bright, fresh fruit flavours, just a smidgen of cool-climate spice and a soft, smooth finish. One for a special dinner party. 97 points from me. $90. www.oakridgewines.com.au/
Jeff Grosset's Polish Hill is consistently Australia's finest riesling; steely and potentially long-lived. Over the past couple of vintage, however, the Polish Hill has undergone a subtle transformation. Grossett isn't sure of the reason but recent-release Polish Hills have become more approachable in their youth; a tad more cuddly. This retains the vibrant layered lime and grapefruit notes and brisk mineral acidity for which the wine is known, but is a little more approachable in its youth. Organic and biodynamic certified throughout the process, this would be delicious paired with pan-fried garfish or King George whiting. $72. www.grosset.com.au/
The Murphy family from Trentham Estate has built a major reputation for quality wines at affordable prices, and you certainly can't go wrong with their new-release 1.5 litre wine pouches. The initial releases are a pinot noir and this pinot grigio. "Tasty", "fruity" and "easy to drink" were three of the comments from tasters with whom I shared this. It's an ideal cheap and cheerful choice for a picnic or day on the beach, fresh, zesty and food-friendly. A glass will cost you around $1 - which makes it formidable value, regardless of the format. Chill, quaff. Simples. $16 for 1.5 litres. www.trenthamestate.com.au.
The Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania is one of the best places on the planet to grow high-quality, cool-climate pinot noir. The Lubiana family purchased the former Panorama vineyard a few years ago, remediated the neglected vines and took out unsuitable varieties. This is made at Granton from 100% grown on the low-yielding Huon vineyard at Cradoc now known as Lucille, which is farmed using organic principles and will eventually be certified biodynamic. This is vegan friendly, floral with bright dark cherry fruit notes, lean tannin structure, hints of minerality and excellent drinkability in its youth. I gave this one 94 points. $62. www.slw.com.au
This one sings. Somewhere between Frank Sinatra at his cool best and Paul Rodgers of Free in full flight. Alison Krauss once described Rodgers' voice as "incredibly masculine, sexy, hardworking". The first two descriptors work for this wine, the third not. It is effortlessly excellent, a masterful expression of Margaret River cabernet that stood out from a bracket of other top-line wines from name producers. It is medium-bodied and stylish, slightly dusty and very beguiling. My bottle threw a bit of a crust, so it might be worth decanting, but either way you will be rewarded by a world-class wine with fine tannins and shiny fruit. Simply gorgeous. 96 points from me. $85. www.leeuwinestate.com.au
In Australia there remains a lot of confusion between pinot grigio and pinot gris styles but this is the real deal, an authentic northern Italian pinot grigio from a well-established producer in the Adigo Valley region, where pinot grigio thrives as a fresh, crisp, easy-to-drink varietal. This is straw coloured with fresh dry apple and pear fruit characters to the fore and is immensely versatile with food. Try it with anything from washed-rind cheeses to Thai stir fries. Santa Margherita Wines began in 1935 and this offers an authentic taste of cool-climate Italy. Check out Dan Murphy's stores. $22-25.
There is something very special about this Mornington Peninsula single vineyard pinot noir - and it id very much down to the vineyard in which the grapes are grown. The low-yielding block has a high incidence of ironstone pebbles that deliver wines with concentration and savoury tannic presence - think river pebbles - alongside juicy raspberry and cherry fruit notes. Medium-bodied but with a formidable presence, this is delicious in its youth, but is also a cellaring prospect. 96 points and another winner from ultra-reliable Glen Hayley. $75. www.portphillipestate.com.au/
