I've seen several very good wines from Margaret River winery Lenton Brae over the past few years but this is a defining wine from winemaker Ed Tomlinson; quintessentialy varietal and regional. While 2007 was a great vintage, cooler 08 has been less highly regarded but this ticks all the quality boxes. Small portions of merlot and cabernet franc have been added to the blend, which has lashings of powerful fruit (think blackcurrant, chocolate and eucalpyt characters) and is drinking extremely well in its youth. The wine has spent 18 months in French oak but the wood is well integrated and it is impressively complex and structured. www.lentonbrae.com. $55.
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