The 1999 release of Mumm's prestige cuvee lives up to the hype, although you need to be very heeled to afford the pleasure. You get what you pay for, however, and this is truly great Champagne. The wine pays tribute to Rene Lalou, who worked for Mumm for over half a century, and there is no doubt he would be proud of this wine. As you'd expect, there is wonderful pure fruit freshness, tremendous complexity, hints of brioche and biscuit, savoury notes, honey, white nougat and a lively mousse. A 50-50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, its complexity does not detract from its drinkability. This is a very special bubbly for a special occasion. $360.
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