Tilbrook Estate 2010 Estate Chardonnay

Self-taught winemaker James Tilbrook handcrafts some exquisite wines in his mini winery in an old woollen mill at Lobethal in the Adelaide Hills. His chardonnays are generally outstanding, and this new release smashes the ball out of the park. There's plenty of flavour here; stone fruit and citrus to the fore, and  richness on the palate, too, with barrel fermentation having added textural interest. The wine is nonetheless very modern in style; clean and crisp on the finish with some appealing racy acidity. My bottle was empty in no time. I'd pair this with some Portuguese chicken, or maybe some freshly grilled sardines. Alternatively, it will cellar well for five years or so. Lovely stuff. $25. www.tillbrookestate.com.au.