Xanadu 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

Margaret River is having a run of dream vintages; of which 2009 was one. Xanadu winemaker Glenn Goodall also is having a run of outstanding releases, of which this is one. All the signs were good, then, when I opened this bottle - and I certainly wasn't disappointed. This is a glorious Margs cab with all the bells and whistles but with no extraneous noise. Think generous fruits de bois notes, quality oak that is beautifully assimilated, varietal character, impressive structure and plenty of length. This is a delightfully balanced wine, full of personality, that is enjoyable right now, or could confidently be cellared. $35. www.xanaduwines.com.