There is always much excitement within the wine trade - and among collectors - surrounding the release each year of the Penfolds Bin and Icon wines, and maybe more so this year with many of the reds coming from the highly-rated 2010 vintage. The new Grange is from 2008 and absolutely outstanding (many of my wine writing colleagues are falling all over themselves bidding to give it the highest possible rating). I'd be spending my money on a few bottles of this, however, a superlative blend of cabernet and shiraz fruit from no fewer than seven different regions throughout South Australia. Magnificently constructed and effortlessly elegant, this is a classic 389 from a vintage in which Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago says “absolutely nothing went wrong”. It is a spectacular, dark and inky red with great intensity, lift and balance. $75.