A very modern, thoroughly delicious cool-climate chardonnay at a down-to-earth price. Lock & Key is the entry-level range for vigneron Jason Brown's Moppity operation outside of Young in New South Wales and the fruit for this wine is sourced from from Coppabella vineyard in ultra-cool Tumbarumba. The wine is made in an elegant, fruit-dominated style with peach and pear notes to the fore. Oak merely plays a small support role and there is plenty of racy acidity on the finish. The more delicate, minerally, Moppity Tumbarumba Chardonnay ($25-30) from the same vintage is more citrusy and elegant, but you can't go past this wine for everyday drinkablity and value. $17-20. www.moppity.com.