There are now four rieslings in the Helm portfolio, three of them using fruit from the Murrumbateman region outside Canberra and a new arrival using Tumbarumba fruit, which I was going to review until I tasted this thrilling number. Ken Helm has been making rieslings for over three decades now and has not only put the Canberra region on the map for the variety but is producing better wines each year. This is crisp, precise and linear with great acid structure and mouth-watering citrus notes on the palate. $30. www.helmwines.com.au.