Vanya Cullen is as obsessive about quality as she is about sustainability. All the Cullen wines are certified biodynamic and carbon neutral and grown on a naturally powered estate. Grapes are harvested by hand on fruit and flower days according to the astrological calendar and there are no additions of yeast, acid or malolactic culture. None of which would matter a jot if the wines were not so very good. From yet another terrific vintage in Margaret River, this is a focused and pure chardonnay with lemon and lime citrus, nutty characters and subtle oak all combining seamlessly. A wine of length and intensity that can either be enjoyed now or cellared. A superb Christmas present for any vinophile. $105. www.cullenwines.com.au.