Steve Flamsteed, chief winemaker at Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander in the Yarra Valley, is in a groove right now; producing wines across the spectrum from light and lively moscato to high-end individual vineyard chardonnays and pinots noir. This is certainly one of the best takes on pinot gris/grigio that I've seen this year; and it also offers cracking value for money. A blend of fruit from the Yarra and King valleys, this falls midway between gris and grigio stylistically. The fruit was hand-picked and whole bunch pressed with 50% going to stainless steel and the rest to mostly older French oak, which adds palate interest without impinging on the bright pear flavours. A fun drink for summer enjoyment. $20. www.innocentbystander.com.au.