Ken Helm has been making rieslings in the Canberra region for close on 40 years now. He was a pioneer of the variety so when he describes his 2015 Classic Riesling as “an extraordinary wine from a spectacular year” there is more truth than hype in play. From a year Helm describes as “Nulli Secundus” - none better, this is a wonderfully aromatic example made from grapes sourced from the Helm estate and neighbouring vineyards within the Murrumbateman valley. Fresh floral aromas lead on to lime, grapefruit and Granny Smith apple flavours, hints of slatey minerality, river pebbles and a gram or two of residual sugar. The finish is brisk and clean and this was superb with a dish of pan-fried blue-eye trevalla. $35. www.helmwines.com.au.