It used to be that there were two regions to go to in Australia for classy cabernets; Margaret River and Coonawarra. On the evidence of recent releases, you can also throw the cooler Yarra Valley into the mix. This is an outstanding reserve cabernet with not a leafy, green element in sight. Yering Station reserve wines are only released in outstanding vintages - and this is a single vineyard selection has spent 18 months in French oak and then time in bottle prior to release. It reminds me of a prima ballerina; tightly coiled with elegance, strength and grace. A wine of power and balance that is most impressive and justifies the price tag. $120. www.yering.com.