Well over a decade or so ago, I received an email from Kevin Bell and Tricia Byrnes asking for some advice on finding a Sydney retail outlet for their range of "garagiste" pinot noirs from Balnarring on the Mornington Peninsula. I was fortunately able to help and have watched with interest as the Hurley Vineyard range has evolved into one of the most impressive pinot portfolios in the country. In 2015, there are four wines in all, an estate offering and individual vineyard wines under the Lodestone, Garamond and Hommage labels. My favourite this time around was the Hommage, juicy and pure, unfined, unfiltered, minerally, savoury and lip-smackingly delicious. My wife preferred the perhaps more elegant Garamond - and may well be right as I understand that has sold out within a few weeks. Both wines are well worth seeking out; paragons of Australian winemaking excellence. $75. www.hurleyvineyard.com.au.