Coonawarra, and Katnook Estate in particular, is better known for cabernet sauvignon than shiraz, but this shone brightly in a blind tasting alongside some more expensive, and more fashionable, cooler-climate shirazes. The truth is shiraz can often out-rate cabernet on the Limestone Coast and this is a prime example with fresh dark berry fruits to the fore with liquorice and subtle pepper playing solid support roles along with classy French oak. This is a wine that is affordable enough for everyday drinking but boasts terrific palate structure. Warm and generous, but in perfect balance, this easy to drink, even easier to enjoy. A solid 92/100. $20. www.katnookestate.com.au.