If the apocalypse were approaching and I only had time to savour one drink, then this would be a leading contender. This Margaret River benchmark is, to be blunt, downright spectacular with high-quality fruit, purity, elegance and texture and what Vanya Cullen describes as the "classic Cullen Vineyard Wilyabrup flavours: cassis, violets, chocolate and ironstone". This is a lifted, vibrant red that has soaked up mainly new French oak from barriques. A blend of 93% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot and 1% each of malbec and petit verdot, this is absolutely superb right now, but will cellar for decades. Impeccable balance, just 12.5% alcohol, from a certified biodynamic and carbon neutral estate. 97 points from me. $130. www.cullenwines.com.au.
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