You don't see many varietal wines made from the Bordeaux grape petit verdot; the grape is most often used as blending material. Here it shines as part of a small batch from Margaret Rivers' excellent Windows Estate; which has used a hand-operated basket press to tease out the aromatics and distinctive varietal character. Dark berry aromas and herbal leafy characters on the nose; dark fruits again on the palate with well-integrated cedary oak and architecture without the fierce tannins that the variety can sometimes produce. A wine of structure that offers immediate pleasure but will also cellar well given its immense length. Really lovely. $45. www.windowsestate.com.