Vermentino is a grape primarily found in Sardinia and Corsica, but is making itself very much at home in warm Australian wine regions, where it produces crisp and fresh dry wines. This was one of three impressive 2020 new releases from sixth-generation winemaker Corinna Wright at Oliver's Taranga in McLaren Vale. The other duo were a delightful fiano and a feisty mencia rosé but this was my favourite by a short half head. It is unoaked, fruity, zippy and zesty and a perfect partner for seafood dishes. Damn good value, too. And very refreshing. $25. www.oliverstaranga.com.