Ashton Hills has for a couple of decades now been one of the finest pinot noir producers in Australia and a gradual handing of the winemaking reins from founder Stephen George to Liam van Pelt has happened seamlessly. This was fermented with 30% whole bunches and then basket pressed before spending nine months in one-to-three year-old French oak. It is very stylish indeed; using fruit sourced purely from preferred clones on the Piccadilly estate in the Adelaide Hills. Floral and earthy elements exist in harmony and there is a long, fine tannin structure. Think layers of flavours, soft persistence and immediate smooth drinkability. Mushroom risotto anyone? $55. www.ashtonhills.com.au.