After 30+ years of producing stellar chardonnays and pinot noirs in the Macedon Ranges, Curly Flat is something of an "insiders" wine, much loved by members of the trade; mainly because of reliable quality and terrific value. Owner Jenifer Kolkka brought winemaker Matt Harrop on board a couple of vintages ago and the wines continue to shine; this rather Burgundian chardonnay, more Meursault than Chablis, would be fabulous with Christmas roast pork or turkey. Concentrated stone fruit aided and abetted by mineral acid drive. Lovely stuff. 96/100. $46. www.curlyflat.com.