d'Arenberg 2019 The Ironstone Pressings

 

If you like your reds with plenty of muscle power you've come to the right place. Released at five years of age - and ready to enjoy - this is a classic big red from fourth-generation McLaren Vale masters d'Arenberg. It is a GSM with 72% grenache, 25% shiraz and a small amount of mourvedre - a regional style favourite. The wine is made old school: open fermenters, basket pressing, lees aging, and the end product is unfined and unfiltered. There is nothing subtle here. You have a wine of power and presence, 15% alcohol, with grippy tannins that demands to be matched with a rib-eye steak. $78. https://www.darenberg.com.au/ 

Hoddles Creek 2023 Junior Pinot Blanc

 

Some wines are captivating from the very first sip. This is one of those wines. Yarra Valley-based Hoddles Creek specialises in chardonnay and pinot noir, but also has several other strings to its bow, including this intriguing pinot blanc. The grape, also known as weißburgunder, is a genetic mutation of pinot noir and is widely grown in Alsace, Germany, northern Italy and in several other European countries, where it produces textural white wines. This has lots of personality. It is hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, racked as as cloudy juice to old white casks (for texture rather than flavour), held on lees and then bottle with minimal filtration. Lively and super food-friendly. $45. https://www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au/

Crittenden 2022 Cri de Coeur Pinot Noir

Attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery are hallmarks of the Crittenden ranges. The wines are made with regenerative farming practices and minimal intervention in the vines and thoughtfulness from winemaker Rollo Crittenden in the winery. This flagship pinot from the family-owned Mornington Peninsula producer is an absolute standout: full of depth, structure and textural interest, it finishes soft, sexy and smooth on the palate. Classic cherry and berry flavours merge with savoury/undergrowth/deli notes to deliver a complex but disarmingly easy-to-drink wine that will beguile pinotphiles. Super food friendly. 96/100 from me. $95. www.crittendenwines.com.au

Clonakilla 2023 Chardonnay

 

The Kirk family has been making outstanding wines at Murrumbateman, outside Canberra, for over half a century but also sources grapes from trusted growers outside the region, primarily from the Hilltops, outside Young, and from high-altitude Snowy Mountains. This outstanding chardonnay uses fruit from the Johansen family vineyards outside Tumbarumba, which sit around 700 to 720 metres above sea level. From the third cooler-than-average vintage in a row, this has definite cool-climate flavours; citrus and stone fruit leading the charge. There's lots of refreshment here, along with lashings of minerality. Excellent drinking. $45. https://clonakilla.com.au/

Taylors St Andrews 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

Clare Valley-based Taylors may be best known for their several value ranges, including Promised Land, the Taylors Estate range and Jaraman, but they also produce some excellent high-end wines like The Visionary, The Legacy and this spectacularly good cabernet sauvignon, released at four years of age and ready to enjoy right now. The 2020 vintage was a difficult one in Clare, but this is a wine of classic varietal character, concentration and appeal. Maturation in fine-grained French oak barrels (30% new) for 18 months has added a veneer of soft cedar nuances. Power and delicacy in one long, but very pretty, package. $75. https://www.taylorswines.com.au/

Xanadu 2022 Stevens Rd Chardonnay

This is all class. A beautifully composed Margaret River chardonnay from an outstanding single vineyard site. Sourced from Block 2 of the Stevens Rd vineyard, 3km down the road from the Xanadu winery, this a stunning wine with a balance of intensity and subtlety; not an easy feat to pull off. All the elements are in place: floral aromas, stone fruit and citrus notes, minerality and a hint of sea salt. The palate is medium-bodied but full of interest with nectarine and lemon/lime flavours aided and abetted by brisk acidity. French oak and barrel ferment play key supporting roles but the fruit is the star. Ready for immediate enjoyment (try it with roast pork and crackling), or for medium-term aging. $100. https://xanaduwines.com/

Pizzini 2024 Arneis

 

Here is a super refreshing white for enjoying well chilled as the weather starts to warm up. Made from an Italian white grape originally from Piedmont that is known as "little rascal", this is grown and made by the Pizzini family in the King Valley of north-east Victoria. It is unoaked and designed for drinking while it is young, vibrant and uncomplicated. You'll find pear drop, banana split, quince and citrus aromas and flavours. Maturation on yeast lees has added palate interest and complexity, but this is basically a wine to enjoy on a warm day. Drink. Don't think. Enjoy with a seafood stir-fry, or quaff a glass or two on the back veranda after work. $26. https://www.pizzini.com.au/  

$26. 

Terre a Terre 2022 Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Shiraz

 

A classic Australian "claret" blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz from one of the standout vineyards in South Australia. The Crayères vineyard sits on an ancient limestone ridge in Wrattonbully that is covered by terra rossa soil. This is a formidably delicious wine with winemaker Xavier Bixot saying it combines "the black fruit characters and peppery notes from the cool-climate shiraz, with velvety tannins and a lovely soft texture from the cabernet". The end result is a soft and enticing wine, beautifully balanced with hints of spice. It paired brilliantly with a steak and kidney casserole and herbed dumplings. $60. https://terreaterre.com.au/

Tahbilk 2014 Museum Release Shiraz

 

This might be one of the biggest wine bargains around. A delicious 10-year-old museum-release shiraz from a producer with a magnificent pedigree. Established in 1860, Tahbilk is one of Australia's historic family owned wineries, located in the Nagambie Lakes region of central Victoria. The wine retails for just a just a shade over $30, which is only a few dollars more than you'll pay for the current release 2021 vintage. It was fermented in 150-year-old open vats before oak maturation and offers an enticing amalgam of earthiness and softness on the palate. $31. www.tahbilk.com.au 

Grosset 2024 Polish Hill Riesling

Purity, racy acidity, presence and panache. The thrilling new vintage of Australia's most collected riesling has just landed, and it is a stunner. Jeff Grosset, master of organics, biodynamics and consistency, has crafted a super wine from a cool year with lemon/lime zest, green apple, grapefruit and zingy minerality playing starring roles. There is a linearity to this wine that sets it apart and it has immediate appeal, but will cellar for decades in the right conditions. I'd pair this with kingfish sashimi. Serve cool, but not too cold, and give it few minutes to breathe. A star turn in anyone's language - a Mahler symphony of pristine excellence. 97.5 points from me. It is unfined and vegan friendly, should that concern you. $80. https://www.grosset.com.au/ 

d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original 2021 Grenache Shiraz

 

It was late at night and I just wanted a glass of red to finish with. How the hell, then, did I end up with a bottle that was half empty? This blend of grenache and shiraz is so delicious that it just sneaks up on you. A classic blend of two varieties that star in McLaren Vale, this is the perfect choice to accompany a barbecue, or a midweek pasta with ragu. It’s fruity, juicy and ready to enjoy right away. It is also very well priced at just $22. https://www.darenberg.com.au/

Vasse Felix 2023 Filius Chardonnay

 

We are in serious bargain territory here: a precise, astutely judged chardonnay from one of Margaret River’s star wineries. Filius means "son" in Latin and this is the understudy label to some Vasse Felix  benchmarks. It is immediately drinkable with its lively fruit the focus and understated oak very much in the background. There is a lot happening on the palate, but it all comes together seamlessly with Granny Smith and stone fruit flavours to the fore and a hint of shortbread biscuit. Hard to know how they produce a wine of this quality for the price, but well worth snapping up. $30. https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Flametree 2020 Embers Cabernet Sauvignon

 

A very impressive new-release Margaret River cabernet sauvignon from a respected producer at four years of age and ready for immediate enjoyment. What's not to like? This is an ideal choice for s spring barbecue, or pairing with a weekend roast. This is no monster, it is medium-bodied and food friendly with soft fruit and gentle tannins, along with some savoury hints on the palate. The price is a bargain, too: for a classy, immediately enjoyable red. $30. https://www.flametreewines.com/

Clonakilla 2023 Shiraz Viognier

 

A new release of one of Australia's benchmark wines; and it's a ripper. I've been fortunate enough to try most of the Clonakilla shiraz viogniers over the years; and this is right up there with the very best. From another cool growing year in Murrumbateman, it delivers both aromatics and potency, with impressive opulence on the mellifluous palate, where myriad flavours combine with cohesion. The shiraz (22% whole bunch) was co-fermented with 6% of viognier to produce a wine in the style for which Clonakilla has become famous. The price may have crept up over the years, but compared to many other Australian shiraz standouts, this is still at a very fair price point. Lovely stuff even in its infancy. 97 points from me. $135. www.clonakilla.com.au   

Greenskin 2024 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

 

I am a big fan of the fresh, easy drinking wines in recyclable pouches from innovators Greenskin in Western Australia. This is a brand-new release, a fresh and feisty 2024 Margaret River blend that is made for Greenskin by Bruce Dukes and Remi Guise from Naturaliste Vintners. It's a perfect choice for a spring picnic by the beach. You'll find lively, crunchy citrus and stone fruit notes and a refreshing acidity on the finish. Decidedly gluggable. Sold in six-packs for $135, which makes it around $22.50 a 750ml lightweight re-sealable pouch. There's a 15% discount if you sign up as a member. https://greenskinwine.com/shop/sauvignon-blanc-semillon-lot22/

Parker Coonawarra Estate 2022 Terra Rossa Shiraz

In a shiraz-crowded Australian wine landscape there a a lot of choices at twice the price that are not half as good as this impressive example of cool-climate goodness that could easily be labelled syrah given its stylistic attributes. Think laid-back black and red fruit notes and spice elements, grippy but astutely restrained tannins and smooth "drink me now" finish. There is plenty of body here, but also a lot of panache. Good work from winemaking team Ox Hardy and Keeda Zilm. This is also pretty versatile when it comes to food pairings; from pizza and pasta to grilled red meats and casseroles, it would deliver across the board. Seriously good drinking for just $34. https://www.parkercoonawarraestate.com.au/

Soumah 2020 Nebbiolo

 

When just about every member of a tasting group gives a wine the thumbs up you know you are onto a good thing. Nebbiolo is the classic Italian grape that is used in the premium wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, but it also shines in cool climes given the right vintage. This is a lovely example reaching peak drinking; it is perfumed, and lifted, with an amalgam of sweet fruit and earthy notes on the palate. It finishes soft and beguiling with plenty of length and a fair bit happening on the palate. Well worth trying. $56. https://soumah.com.au/

Ravensworth 2022 Shiraz Viognier

Ravensworth winemaker Bryan Martin spent many years as a key member of the team at Clonakilla, where the Kirk family have made their shiraz viognier blend an Australian icon. I think this is a little more elegant than the Clonakilla take, a tad less muscular, perhaps more immediately approachable. There is just 3% of viognier in the co-ferment here, but it adds a lot of subtle style to the cool-climate Canberra region shiraz. This is terrific as a young wine, but it will also cellar impressively for a decade or so. There is a lot of winemaking skill here; 15% whole bunch and wild yeasts play a part, too, along with several weeks on skins and seamless older oak. The end result is supremely cohesive. 94 points from me. $52. https://www.ravensworthwines.com.au/

Squitchy Lane 2022 Limited-Release Cabernet Franc

Squitchy Lane is a boutique wine producer in the Yarra Valley, owned by former Carlton AFL captain Mike Fitzpatrick, that produces outstanding pinot noir is small quantities. The amount made of this excellent cabernet franc is even smaller, however. Cabernet franc is nearly always used as part of Bordeaux-style blends and rarely given the chance to shine in its own right. When it is, as on this occasion, is produces fragrant and medium-bodied red wines that are super food friendly. The variety was part of the original 1982 plantings at Squitchy Lane and is well-suited to the cooler climate of the Yarra. I enjoyed the melange of classic dark currant and plum flavours with spicy/olive notes and gentle oak. $52. https://www.squitchylane.com.au/

Kerrigan + Berry 2023 Margaret River Chardonnay

So what do we have here? A very attractive young Margaret River chardonnay from two wise old wine hands. The Kerrigan + Berry wines are a collab between two leading Western Australia winemakers; Gavin Berry of West Cape Howe in the Great Southern region and Michael Kerrigan of Hay Shed Hill in Margaret River. This has terrific immediate drinking appeal, and is made from fruit grown in the esteemed Wilyabrup sub-region. There is plenty of  palate interest but it is a quintessential "drink now" wine full of youthful charm with a high refreshment quotient. There are white stone fruit/citrus flavours with impressive minerality and nice length. Only 11.5% alcohol and Vegan friendly. Lovely stuff. Serve chilled, but not too chilled. $40. https://hayshedhill.com.au/collections/kerrigan-berry/products/kerrigan-berry-chardonnay-2022

Penny's Hill 2022 Edwards Road Cabernet Sauvignon

The Penny's Hill label may have changed a little, but the value-for-money proposition remains unchanged. This is an appealing and affordable single-site cabernet from McLaren Vale that is dark with classic rich dark berry and chocolate notes along with tobacco leaf and some oaky goodness that impacts but does not intrude. It has impressive length, good structure and has plenty of flavour on the palate while retaining balance. Pair this with a winter roast beef dish, some sauteed mushrooms, or tuck it away for a few years. An impressive each-way bet. $30. https://pennyshill.com.au/

Dandelion Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2023 Riesling

It is a toss up whether the Clare Valley or the Eden Valley is Australia's premier riesling region but this one from Dandelion Vineyards puts a very convincing case for the Eden Valley, even though it comes at a premium price point. I loved the chrystalline purity of this wine; which is made with fruit from a vineyard that was planted in 1912. There are classic citrus characters here, very bright natural acidity, minimal winemaking influence, and low alcohol (11.5%). It finishes deliciously dry. Great work from husband and wife team Zar Brooks (typist) and Elena Brooks (winemaker). Simply lovely stuff. You could cellar it, I'm certain, but it is bloody beautiful right now. We paired it with soy-braised fresh tuna and teriyaki eggplant. $60. www.dandelionvineyards.com.au

Parker Coonawarra Estate 2022 Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon

This offers awesome value when it comes to quality Coonawarra cabernets. Made from estate fruit from the Abbey vineyard on the red soils of the Terra Rossa strip over limestone - dirt that produces some of Australia's best cabernets. This has seen 100% French oak (50% new) but the quality fruit has soaked up the oak, resulting in a wine of excellent balance, impressive structure and immediate appeal. Pair this with a winter casserole, or maybe a classic steak and kidney pie. It's ready to enjoy right now, but some short-term cellaring sure wouldn't hurt. $34. https://www.parkercoonawarraestate.com.au/  

 

Moss Wood Ribbon Vale 2023 Elsa

 

There is something special about wines from Moss Wood in Margaret River. The best descriptor I can come up with is "complete". There are many elements to this delightful and savoury sauvignon blanc-driven wine, but they come together like a well-conducted orchestra. This is inspired by the wines of the Loire Valley and is super food friendly with dry tropical fruit notes, cream and spice hints with just the merest hint of toasty oak - mainly older old French barriques - completing the package. This single-vineyard blend comes from a very good - albeit dry - vintage. $80. https://www.mosswood.com.au/

     

Longview 2023 Twin Palms Pinot Noir

The Adelaide Hills has become the "go to" region for affordable pinot noir in Australia and this recent release from the Saturno family demonstrates why. From a vineyard overlooked by two palms trees - hence the name - this is a thoroughly modern, thoroughly delicious take on one of the most difficult grape varieties to get right. There is a beautiful balance between fresh berry fruit flavours and more savoury notes and its is ready for immediate consumption, having had undergone cool ferment in stainless steel and then spending six months in old French oak puncheons. It's all about the fruit from an excellent vintage with a silky, juicy cheekiness. If you can pair this with some Chinese duck pancakes you will be in for a treat. $30. https://www.longviewvineyard.com.au/

Les Dauphins 2023 Cotes du Rhone Reserve Rosé

 

Delightfully fresh and vibrant young French rosé for $20 a bottle? Yes indeed. That's well worth getting excited about. This is from a well-regarded co-op with 60 years of experience in the Drome region in the southern Cotes du Rhone and it magically transports you to one of those picture postcard French villages, where a glass or two of rosé every day is a necessity. It hits just the right note between a melange of fruits and savoury hints, and finishes with some bright acidity. We paired this with spaghetti, scallops, chilli and tomato, and that was an excellent combo. Distributed by Single Vineyard Sellers. A brilliant buy for $20. 

 

Howard Park 2023 Miamup Chardonnay

A stylish, composed and immediately enjoyable chardonnay from a family-owned premium wine producer in Margaret River for $30? Sounds too good to be true, but fortunately it isn't. My wife and I both had the same reaction: "This is delicious isn't it?" Miamup Chardonnay is made from a selection of vineyard blocks and clones, the majority in Wilyabrup, and fermentation and malolactic occurs in a combination of older French oak and stainless-steel tanks. None of which matters a jot if you are looking for affordable vinous gratification, which this offers in spaces. It has crunch apple and pear flavours, a hint of grapefruit and lemon sorbet raciness. There is lively acidity and some minerality on the finish in a wine designed for immediate enjoyment. Pair with pork ribs, or a spicy chicken dish. $30. https://www.burchfamilywines.com.au/prod-brand/howard-park/

Grosset 2022 Gaia

 

Jeffrey Grosset may be best known as Australia's pre-eminent maker of fine rieslings, but he is certainly no one trick pony. The Grosset range of biodynamic wine excellence now comprises 11 wines, nine from the Clare Valley and two from the Piccadilly Valley (Adelaide Hills). If you are looking for a stylish red full of complexity and palate interest then this will fit the bill. A blend of 95% Clare Valley cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc, it is impeccably balanced - a thing of beauty. Taut still, but with classic briary/wild hedgerow characters, dark currant flavours and well-integrated French oak, this can be enjoyed right now as you admire its length and polish, or be cellared for a decade or two. Dinner party coming up? Buy a couple of bottles. Happy to give this one a cracking 97/100. $108 but worth it. Fillet mignon anyone? https://www.grosset.com.au/

Battle of Bosworth 2023 Puritan Shiraz

 

So you like shiraz with plenty of flavour but are on a tight budget? The Puritan might just be answer to your prayers. From the Battle of Bosworth winery in McLaren Vale - shiraz heartland - this ticks a whole lot of boxes for everyday drinking pleasure. Organically grown with minimal preservatives, this is bright, fresh and juicy with plenty of immediate drinking please on offer. Given the fact that it has seen zero oak, it is probably best enjoyed over the next couple of years - but would be no hardship. Vibrant and vital, this would be brilliant with a barbecue. Bring on the snags and burger patties. Super value at $25. https://www.battleofbosworth.com.au   

AC Byrne 2023 Margaret River Chardonnay

That you can buy wine this good for $11 a bottle is nothing less than miraculous - and an absolute godsend in these difficult economic times. Yes, it's another Aldi special, so supply might be limited, but there is some very deft winemaking here. Taste this blind and I reckon most drinkers would expect to pay $25 upwards for a wine of this quality. Who is A.C. Byrne? They almost certainly don’t exist, but does it matter? The value here is exceptional. Margaret River chardonnay was apparently handpicked, whole-bunch pressed with the cloudy juice sent to large format oak for fermentation and aged for nine months. Classic chardonnay flavours: white stone fruit, crispness, vibrancy and flinty hints. Bring out the pork spare ribs. $11.

Schubert Estate 2017 The Lone Goose

The Schubert family has been growing grapes in the Barossa Valley over almost 110 years. More recently they've been making some excellent estate wines. The limited-release 2017 Lone Goose Shiraz Viognier recently picked up a Diamond Trophy Award at the 2024 Sakura Women’s Wine Awards in Japan, along with being given the ‘Grand Prix Pairing for Japanese Cuisine - Sukiyaki’. Regular readers will be aware of my disdain for show awards but this really is a wine of exceptional quality: a shiraz viognier blend sourced from a 25-year-old vineyard block on the Roennfeldt Road estate that is basket pressed and matured in seasoned French oak barriques for 20 months. Classic Barossa flavours here, but also exceptional balance and elegance with excellent tannin structure. Devastatingly drinkable. $100 but numbers are limited. https://schubertestate.com/

Vasse Felix 2022 Chardonnay

 

You know you've got a good 'un when you underestimate the price of a wine by a considerable margin. I expected this captivating chardonnay to retail for around $70. The fact that it sells for $25 less than that should have you rushing out to sample a bottle. Very rarely do you find wines at this price point that tick so many quality boxes. There's a come hither nose, while the palate is complex and stylish but immediately drinkable with quality fruit spending time in French oak barriques to add complexity. Soft, smooth and chalky on the finish. The grapes come from a selection of Vasse Felix’s premier plots and this is a work of art. Soft, smooth and chalky on the finish. Think a vinous Banksy. A confident 96 points from me. $45. https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Dandelion Vineyards 2022 Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz

Serious Barossa shiraz for $30 is good to find, and this one from Dandelion VIneyards delivers great value for money. This is made using fruit from some gnarly old vines, some over 100 years old. Open fermented, hand plunged twice a day and then basket pressed into mainly older French barriques, this is very approachable in its youth and would pair brilliantly with a gourmet Angus beef burger. It can sometimes be found on special and is certainly well worth keeping your eyes out for. $30. https://dandelionvineyards.com.au/

Tapanappa 2023 Tiers Chardonnay

Simply superb. A classic cool-climate chardonnay from an iconic 45-year-old vineyard in the Adelaide Hills, this is a benchmark of excellence from vastly experienced winemaker Brian Croser and his Tapanappa team. From a cool vintage, this is a wine of intensity and panache; a wine that first demands "taste me" and then "think about me". A cerebral blend with apple, stone fruit and nutty flavours in perrfect harmony, it is classically varietal with bright acid on the finish and the structure to suggest cellaring would pay dividends. Pair with roast pork and crackling, or a Mediterranean vegetable tart. Savour its amazing length, This is not cheap at $110, but it would elevate any dinner party. 96+ points. https://tapanappa.com.au/ 

Craggy Range 2023 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc

 

Remember the days when Kiwi sauvignon blanc was all the rage? Seems like an eternity ago doesn't it? But there are still some outstanding savvy blancs from New Zealand on offer if you choose carefully and I really enjoyed the varietal character and palate power of this one from Martinborough. There is some herbaceousness, sure, but this is all about minerality and intensity with plenty of textural elements on the palate (with a small percentage of whole bunch playing a role). The complexity is added to by a combination of use of stainless steel and various formats of French oak. This could be called a fumé blanc. Think summer sipping on the back deck. $36. https://craggyrange.com/

Zema Estate 2018 Family Collection Shiraz

 

Family-owned Zema Estate is a Coonwarra producer that usually over-delivers on value - and is known for only releasing its Family Selection reds when they are at their peak. Hence this new release - and its Cabernet Sauvignon sibling - are being released at six years of age. With over four decades of experience - the brand was launched in 1982 - the family focuses on hand-pruning, fruit selection, quality oak barrels, and bottle ageing - all of which are reflected here in a shiraz that is rich, smart and sophisticated with a complex but beautifully cohesive palate. Drink now with a beef casserole, or cellar. Your choice. $50 - but cheaper from cellar door or online. https://www.zema.com.au/

Paul Mas 2022 Pays d'Oc Marsanne

 

Looking for a white wine that is full of palate interest but extremely affordable? You can't go past this Languedoc white from one of the many labels of Arrogant Frog proprietor Jean-Claude Mas. This is a great picnic choice with its honeydew melon, pear, quince paste and fresh white peach notes. It is very well balanced, finishes dry and smooth and is exceptionally well balanced for wine in its price bracket. Marsanne is a grape that originates in the northern Rhone and is often used in blends, but here it is grown in the Languedoc, further south, and shines on its own. Some bright acid on the finish so pair with a vegetable quiche. $12 at Dan Murphy's stores - a definite bargain buy.

Kilikanoon 2018 Attunga 1865 Shiraz

If your are looking for a complex, age-worthy shiraz for a special occasion but don't have the budget for a Hill of Grace, Grange or Factor, then this might be a very good alternative. The fruit comes from a Clare Valley vineyard just outside Auburn that was planted in 1865. I shared this wine with my tasting group this week and it met with universal acclaim, well merited given it is a concentrated, intense but smooth-finishing red with a lot of deep, brooding flavour elements including smoky, savoury, dark fruit and chocolate. It has a serious structural side but can be enjoyed right now.  A fillet steak would be an appropriate match. $250. www.killikanoon.com.au  

Flametree 2022 Chardonnay

 
Here is a very composed - and well priced - Margaret River chardonnay that is in the zone right now, offering a lot of food-friendly drinking pleasure. Flametree winemaker Cliff Royle has all his ducks in a row with a wine that has plenty of power without being overpowering. This is dry and textural with wild ferment adding to the mix in a positive way. There is some bright citrus-accented acidity on the finish while French oak plays an impressive support role. You could pair this with anything from fish and chips to lobster mornay. $35. https://www.flametreewines.com/ 

Tapanappa 2022 Foggy Hill Pinot Noir

The Tapanappa label is the result of a 40+ year mission of veteran winemaker Brian Croser and his family to make world-class wines from the most “distinguished sites” in South Australia. The Foggy Hill vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula might not be an obvious contender as a site for world-class pinot, but it delivers big time with this vibrant and spicy example of classic terroir-driven varietal character. There is plenty of length here and aging potential, too, given its serious complexity, but it is a lovely wine right now that I give 95 points. Impressive stuff . $60. https://tapanappa.com.au/

Levantine Hill 2020 Melange Botrytis

Many wine drinkers make the mistake of thinking that sweet wines must be paired with desserts. Au contraire, the French, who know a little about food and wine matching, tend to pair their classic Sauternes wines with dishes including foie gras, pates, terrines and soft cheeses. This homage to Sauternes is a blend of late-harvested semillon, sauvignon blanc, muscadelle and sauvignon gris with the whole far greater than its parts. Rich and luscious, this has apricot, marmalade, golden honey and Seville orange notes with enough acid on the finish to match the lashings of residual sugar. Well worth checking out. $60 for 375mls. https://www.levantinehill.com.au/ 

Concentrated and complexed via infection of the selected berries with the noble Botrytis cinerea, this wine is rich and hedonistic, luscious and viscous yet elegant and structured.

Aromas of golden syrup dumplings, barley sugar, crystallised ginger, beeswax andorange marmalade meld with flavours of orange poppy seed cake, cumquat and cardamom panna cotta.

A smattering of phenolics on the finish helps draw the palate long giving resolution and profundity, keeping the sweetness in check. It will gain further richness and dark allure with careful cellaring over 10+ years.

Discover more about our 2020 Mélange Botrytis and how this unusual wine is made in our Wine Spotlight.

Note: 375ml bottle $60.  https://www.levantinehill.com.au/

Giant Steps 2023 Rosé

 

I could drink more than a few glasses of this impressively slurpable rosé from Yarra Valley standout Giant Steps. Winemaker Melanie Chester - previously from rosé specialist Sutton Grange - has blended syrah (shiraz) and pinot noir grapes to produce a wine that is both fun and stylish - perfect for a summer picnic, or just for sipping on the veranda after work. It is unashamedly based on the pale, savoury rosés of Provence and is clearly designed to be enjoyed well chilled for maximum refreshment. Intense with raspberry and redcurrant flavours, this finishes with impressive bright acidity. Drink now. Right now. $32. https://www.giantstepswine.com.au/

Longview 2021 Devil's Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon

The cool Adelaide Hills are not the first location you'd think of for sourcing quality cabernet sauvignon, but this one delivers both quality and value to challenge Coonawarra and Margaret River with fruit from a Macclesfield vineyard that gets plenty of midday sun. This has classic blackcurrant and chocolate characters but finishes smooth, supple and stylish. There's plenty of length here with a long ripening period resulting in pleasingly intense but well balanced fruit flavours aided and abetted by malo and 12 months in soft, older oak. Medium-bodied and all the better for it. This won a trophy for the best cabernet at the 2022 Melbourne Royal Wine Awards. $30. www.longviewvineyard.com.au/