Vasse Felix 2015 Premier Cabernet Sauvignon

The quality of the wines being made by Virginia Willcock at Vasse Felix in Margaret River just keeps soaring. This is characterful, fleshy, elegant, concentrated and appealing in the regional style. It was the first red wine produced in Margaret River and has been made every year since 1972. In this vintage, a savoury nose (think a fragrant compost heap or pot pourri) leads on to a body with dark fruit cake flavours, cassis and biscuity/chocolate notes, beautifully integrated with spicy oak. I'm happy to give this 96 points and would advise buying at least half a dozen so that several bottles can be cellared. $45 - and a very good buy at that price. 
www.vassefelix.com.au. 

Innocent Bystander 2017 Pinot Noir

Quality pinot noir is becoming increasingly expensive as it grows in popularity with Australian drinkers. Some producers are able to ask - and get - $50 for their entry-level offerings. This Yarra Valley wine is a nice surprise, then, well-made, flavoursome cool-climate pinot at a sensible price. Think black cherry flavours with hints of Asian spice, some savoury deli hints and a very soft and supple finish that makes it accessible in its youth. Seriously good buying here; and with the money you save you can probably afford some roast duck to go with it. $25. www.innocentbystander.com.au.  

Brown Brothers 2014 Patricia Noble Riesling

Named after late family matriarch Patricia Brown, the Brown Brothers' Patricia range highlights the finest wines produced by the benchmark Victorian winery. The range varies each year with only wines judged as being outstanding making the cut. I was a big fan of the 2013 Patricia stickie and the 2014, using riesling from the King Valley, is another standout. A multiple god medal winner, this continues a long line of botrytis-affected wines dating back to the early 1960s. It has a beguiling blend of natural sweetness and acid and is delightfully balanced, as well being vegan friendly. Complex and concentrated with classic Scottish marmalade flavours and a silky finish. $37. www.brownbrothers.com.au.  

Michael Hall 2016 Blanc de Pigeon

British-born Michael Hall is one of the fascinating stories of the Australian wine industry; a former jewelry valuer who changed career streams mid-life and now crafts some intriguing wines from various sites in South Australia, including the Barossa and the Adelaide Hills. This is a beguiling white blend from the Hills, an unusual combination of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. All the fruit has been barrel fermented and spent nine months on lees in quality French oak. The end result is cerebral, textural, delightfully balanced and decidedly gluggable. $28. www.michaelhallwines.com. 

Sinapius 2016 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir

Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice, the inventive couple behind Tasmanian boutique label Sinapius, describe themselves as wine growers, rather than winemakers. Their wines are close planted, dry grown and hand picked on their exposed site at Pipers Brook. This is 100% estate grown pinot from low-yielding 22-year-old vines made with minimalist winemaking intervention; 80% whole berries, 20% whole bunches, wild yeast fermentation for 21 days and matured in 30% new French oak barriques for 12 months, then a further three months blended in tank prior to bottling to allow for natural clarification and integration. Think black and red fruits, herbal notes, deli counter characters and natural acidity, on a wine that finishes soft and sweet with plenty of textural impact. Well worth tracking down. $55. www.sinapius.com.au. 

Scott 2016 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay

Sam Scott is probably best-known for his impressive range of Italian varietals under the La Prova label, but the Adelaide Hills winemaker also produces some classic cool-climate wines under his Scott label. This chardonnay, made using fruit from the chilly Piccadilly Valley, is absolutely outstanding. It is thoroughly modern, tight and focused, fruit-driven with citrus and stone fruit notes co-existing happily alongside each other. There is some bright acid backbone and an overall elegance that makes this a pleasure to drink. The fruit is hand-picked, chilled overnight and then whole-bunch pressed directly to old French oak barriques, where it undergoes natural fermentation. It undergoes partial malo but no lees stirring. Clean, crisp, intense and delicious. Pair with roast pork and crackling. $45. www.scottwines.com.au.  

Taylors Promised Land 2017 Pinot Noir

There's a new look to Taylor's value-for-money Promised Lange range - and a newcomer, as well; a youthful pinot noir that is a downright ridiculous bargain. If you can find a better pinot than this at the same price you should snap it up - but I'm pretty sure you won't. A friend found it on special for $10 a bottle the other day; you should be chewing the bottle shop manager's arm off to take your money if you can match that. For a start, you don't find many pinots with this kind of varietal character for under $20. It is a blend of fruit from several regions of South Australia, and granted, it is not one for the cellar. But is lifted, vibrant, light bodied and a whole lot of fun; juicy, fleshy and very drinkable with or without food. La Cicciolina. Highly recommended. $14. www.taylorswines.com.au.