Two strikes against this wine. 1. It is made by one of the big companies. 2. It is unfashionable chardonnay. But put prejudice aside and you’ll find a thoroughly modern dry white wine that is fresh, zingy and lively with subtle oak in the background. Made from Adelaide Hills fruit, with a little Tumbarumba blended in for good measure, this has both complexity and drinkability – you won’t find too many better for $20. Shop around and you may find it even cheaper.