It has taken a while, but the wineries of the Granite Belt in Queensland (freezing in winter, warm in summer) are starting to produce wines with a wow! factor. This is a case in point, made by Ray Costanzo at Golden Grove Estate in Ballandean. Its is a modern take on the ancient Sicilian grape Nero d'Avola, with bright red fruits on both nose and palate. Naturally fermented, this has oodles of soft, sweet fruit, but is also impressively poised with the fruit combining impressively with fine-grained French oak. This a pleasure to drink and would work a treat with Italian meatballs in tomato sauce. $30. www.goldengroveesate.com.au.