It is almost impossible to wrong with the single-vineyard chardonnay releases from esteemed Mornington Peninsula producer Kooyong; you can taste the attention to detail adopted by winemaker Glen Hayley and his vineyard team. This razor-sharp single-block wine is sourced from just 1.02 hectares of near 20-year-old chardonnay vines within the 2.76 hectare Farrago block. French oak and lees stirring have played a role but linear intensity and flinty minerality are the key element. If you love citrusy Chablis with zesty drive then you won't want to miss this. Well worth splashing out on. 95 points. $61. www.kooyonngwines.com.au.