Mataro, also known as mourvedre or monastrell, depending on where it is grown, is used in the reds of the Rhone Valley and Provence in France, in Spain and the California. In the Barossa Valley it is most often used as a blending grape (usuually with shiraz and grenache). Here is stands proudly alone. The fruit is from the Hoffman vineyard on Ebenenzer Road and while it is a ripe, assertive red it also has enough nuance to be enjoyable in its youth. Concentrated, dark, spicy and briary, it finishes with seductive softness. Pair it with offal dishes, or a vegetable quiche. $38. www.thornclarkewines.com.